Cold Kitchen
Jam Session: A Fruit-Preserving Handbook
Jam Session: A Fruit-Preserving Handbook |
Things get somewhat pungent down in the straight...
Cajun nation is the last bastion of genuine American territorial cooking, and nobody realizes it better than Isaac Toups. Presently the gourmet specialist of the acclaimed Toups' Meatery and Toups South in New Orleans, he grew up somewhere down in the Atchafalaya Basin of Louisiana, where his progenitors settled 300 years prior. There, chasing and fishing trips give the fixings to mutual social events, and these shrimp and crayfish bubbles, entire hoard boucheries, fish frys, and terrace picnics - structure the foundation of this book.
Taking perusers from the boondocks to the inlet, Toups tells the best way to make:
A damn fine gumbo, boudin, messy rice, crabcakes, and cochon de lait His unique twofold cut pork hack and the Toups Burger And more genuine Cajun claims to fame like Hopper Stew and Louisiana Ditch Chicken.
En route, he discloses to you how to build an on-the-fly grill pit, work up a dull roux in just 15 minutes, and apply Cajun creativity to pretty much everything.
Loaded with pungent stories, a couple of fanciful stories, and in excess of 100 plans that twofold down on flavor, Chasing the Gator shows how - and what it implies - to prepare Cajun food today.
About the Author
JOYCE GOLDSTEIN is a former Chez Panisse chef; the retired chef/owner of James Beard Award–winning restaurant Square One; and the author of twenty-eight books. Her preserves are sold at gourmet locations, such as Bi-Rite Market in San Francisco and Bread Furst in Washington, DC, and enjoyed by her very lucky grandchildren. She lives in San Francisco.
To quote the author: “Most commercial condiments and preserves are bland and anonymous, formulated to satisfy a wide audience, including the least adventurous eaters. The flavor of the fruit is usually masked by way too much sugar. The beautiful tension between sweetness and acidity is lost. That is why I make my own.” This fits my philosophy exactly which is why I was so glad to have found this book. If you are going to the time and expense of preserving why make something that tastes like a supermarket offering? I like the organization of the book by season. Since I am lucky enough to have a property with a mature quince tree I especially appreciated the extensive section on quince, which I have not seen in any other preserving book. She is definitely opinionated about what she likes and dislikes which is refreshing. There are pages and pages of interesting recipes to try. Definitely not a run of the mill preserving book, which is good! -Blondarella
Not for beginners, better for experienced canners who are familiar with the practice and principles of water bath canning. Goldstein's canning instructions are bit wonky and out of date - sterilizing jars is unnecessary if processing more than 10 minutes in a water bath, Ball no longer recommends heating lids, clean washed lids can be applied at room temperature, saving time and trouble, among other finicky and superfluous instructions BUT her recipes feature the most interesting complex spicing and flavor profiles I've ever seen. Her fig jams are to die for and well worth the trouble it might take to locate obscure spices and extracts such as Fiori di Sicilia, Lapsang Souchang, or Maras chile (try Kalustyan's as a source). I've totally converted to the judicious use of rose sugar as an ingredients and to her unapologetic use of bold and unexpected flavors. Her quantities are confusing and inconsistent - are 6 ounce baskets of berries by volume or weight? How is the predicted yield of 4 pounds of figs 8 half pints in one recipe yet half that weight in another recipe somehow expected to yield 6-8 half pints? But I forgive her anything for these amazing recipes. -Balaboosta
I have made several recipes from this books and they are all delicious, unusual, and complex. I like the fact that these recipes do not rely on commercial pectin as the flavors are enhanced. Beginners might want to review the basics of canning via the Ball/Fresh Preserving website because some procedures are a bit outdated. For example, Ball no longer recommends boiling lids. I did notice what may be a typo in the Whole Spiced Figs in Tea Syrup recipe: When filling the jars, the headspace should be 1/2 inch instead of 1 inch. The recipe is really wonderful and especially delicious over ice cream or yogurt. I highly recommend this book. -Anonymous
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